How is composite decking actually made, and why does that matter for durability?

Composite decking is made from a blend of wood fiber and plastic, with quality boards fully wrapped in a protective cap on all sides. That cap is what keeps moisture, salt residue, and UV from breaking the board down over time, which is why we treat a full cap as a baseline rather than an upgrade for this area.

What should I ask a contractor before hiring them for a composite deck project?

Ask what hardware grade they use for fasteners and connectors, how they handle ledger flashing where the deck meets the house, and whether they'll pull the required permit. A contractor who can answer those specifically, rather than in general terms, is usually one who's actually thought about your site.

Do you install a specific composite decking brand, or does the homeowner have options?

We work with several established composite manufacturers rather than being tied to one brand, so we can match the board to your budget, color preference, and how exposed your specific site is. We'll walk you through the real trade-offs between options instead of just upselling the priciest line.

Does composite decking get slippery given how much rain we get around here?

A smooth, glossy composite board can get slick when wet or lightly filmed with algae, which is common in a shaded, wet climate. That's why we generally recommend a grooved or textured board profile for this area — it drains better and holds traction noticeably better underfoot.

Does March Point's location on the water change what decking approach makes sense compared to other parts of Skagit County?

Yes — sites closer to open water deal with more direct salt exposure and wind-driven rain than more sheltered inland Skagit County properties, so we lean toward marine-grade or stainless hardware and fully capped boards more consistently out here. It's less about the composite material itself and more about how the whole structure — framing, fasteners, ventilation — is built to handle that specific exposure.

March Point Composite Decking Built for Salt Air & Rain

A Point Surrounded by Water Needs a Deck Built for It

March Point sits out on the water, and that changes what a deck has to deal with compared to a build ten miles inland. You've got salt-laden air coming off the bay, long stretches of driving rain through the fall and winter, and a wet, shaded moss season that can run for months. A deck built to a generic spec — the kind that would be fine in a dry inland climate — tends to show its weaknesses here faster: fasteners that streak and corrode, boards that stay damp longer than they should, framing that never quite gets to dry out between storms. Composite decking, installed correctly for this specific exposure, is one of the more sensible answers to that problem, but "installed correctly" is doing a lot of work in that sentence. This page is about what that actually means for a deck at March Point, not composite decking in general.

What Salt Air and Driving Rain Actually Do to a Deck

It helps to be specific about the failure modes we're designing against, rather than just saying "coastal climate" and moving on.

Salt Air and Metal

Salt-laden air accelerates corrosion on anything metal — screws, joist hangers, post bases, railing brackets. Standard zinc-coated hardware that would last for decades in a drier, inland part of Skagit County can start showing rust streaks and pitting much sooner this close to the water. Once a fastener starts to corrode, it weakens, and it can also stain the decking around it.

Driving Rain and Wind-Driven Moisture

Rain that comes in sideways off the water finds its way into places vertical rain doesn't — under rail caps, behind fascia boards, into end-grain cuts that weren't sealed. Composite boards themselves don't rot, but the framing underneath them, and any wood trim around the perimeter, absolutely can if water is allowed to sit against it.

Moss, Algae, and Shade

A long, wet moss season means anything that stays damp and shaded — the north side of a deck, the gaps between boards, the underside of stair treads — is going to grow something green eventually. That's a maintenance issue more than a structural one, but it affects which board profile and which finish actually make sense here.

What a Correct Composite Deck Build Involves at March Point

The composite boards themselves are only part of the job. The parts that actually determine whether a deck holds up in this climate are mostly things you won't see once it's finished.

Framing and Ledger Attachment

We use pressure-treated or naturally durable framing lumber rated for ground contact where it's called for, and we pay close attention to the ledger connection where the deck meets the house — that's the single most common point of water intrusion on any deck, and it's worse in a wind-driven rain climate. Proper flashing at the ledger isn't optional here.

Fasteners and Hardware

Given the salt exposure, we default to stainless steel or heavy-duty coated fasteners and connectors rated for coastal or marine-adjacent use, not the minimum-code hardware that's fine for a dry inland build. It costs a bit more up front and saves you from rust streaks and weakened connections down the road.

Airflow Underneath the Deck

A deck that's built low to the ground, or boxed in tight with skirting and no venting, holds moisture underneath it longer — which is exactly what you don't want in a wet climate. We build in enough clearance and ventilation for air to actually move under the structure so it can dry out between storms instead of staying damp for weeks.

Board Spacing and Drainage

Composite boards need consistent gapping, both between boards and at the perimeter, so water has somewhere to go instead of pooling. Correct spacing also matters for the boards' expansion and contraction as temperature and moisture levels change through the year — get it wrong and boards can buckle or crowd at the seams.

Composite vs. Other Decking Materials for This Climate

Composite isn't the only option, and it isn't automatically the right answer for every home. Here's how it compares for a site like March Point specifically.

Material	How it handles salt air & rain	Moss/algae behavior	Ongoing maintenance
Capped composite	Doesn't rot or corrode; hardware is the main vulnerability	Can grow surface algae like any material; cleans off, doesn't damage the board	Occasional wash; no staining or sealing
Natural wood (cedar, fir)	Needs consistent sealing to resist moisture cycling and salt exposure	Moss/algae can hold moisture against the wood if not cleaned regularly	Annual or biannual stain/seal, ongoing inspection
PVC decking	Fully water-resistant, doesn't take on moisture	Similar surface growth to composite; wipes clean	Low; some homeowners find the appearance and feel less natural
Pressure-treated wood	Prone to warping and checking with repeated wet/dry and salt cycling	Holds moisture in checked grain, more prone to persistent growth	Highest — regular sealing, board replacement over time

We install composite for a lot of March Point homes because it removes rot as a variable in a climate where rot is a real risk, without the higher price point of full PVC systems. That said, we'll tell you honestly if your specific project, budget, or aesthetic points somewhere else — this is a recommendation based on trade-offs, not a one-size-fits-all pitch.

Choosing the Right Composite Board for a Site This Close to the Water

Not all composite decking is built the same way, and the differences matter more here than they would inland.

Capped vs. Uncapped Composite

Fully capped composite — with a protective shell wrapped around the core on all sides — handles moisture cycling and staining far better than older, uncapped composite. Given the amount of rain and humidity a March Point deck deals with, we treat a full cap as the standard, not an upgrade.

Board Profile and Texture

A grooved or lightly textured surface sheds water better and gives more traction when the deck is wet or has a film of algae on it — worth prioritizing over a smooth, glossy finish that looks nice on a showroom sample but gets slick fast in our weather.

Color and Heat

Darker composite boards can show water spotting and pollen or salt residue more visibly than lighter, mid-tone colors. It's a cosmetic consideration, not a structural one, but worth thinking about before you commit to a color.

How We Approach a March Point Composite Deck Project

On-site assessment — we look at existing framing (if it's a resurface), drainage, sun/shade exposure, and how close the site is to direct salt spray versus more sheltered.
Design and material selection — board brand, profile, and color, plus railing and fastener hardware suited to the exposure.
Framing and structural work — repair or build out substructure, correct ledger flashing, confirm proper drainage slope and ventilation clearance.
Composite installation — hidden or face-fastened per the board manufacturer's spec, with correct gapping and expansion allowance.
Finish work and walkthrough — trim, stairs, railing, and a final check with you before we call it done.

Maintaining a Composite Deck Through Skagit County's Moss Season

Composite decking is genuinely low-maintenance compared to wood, but "low-maintenance" doesn't mean "no maintenance" — especially in a climate this wet.

Sweep off debris and standing leaf litter regularly, especially where it collects against railing posts or in corners.
Rinse or lightly scrub the surface a couple of times a year to keep algae and moss film from getting established, particularly on shaded sections.
Check the gaps between boards periodically and clear out any buildup so water keeps draining the way it's supposed to.
Inspect visible fasteners and hardware once a year for early rust staining, especially near the water side of the structure.
Keep an eye on the area underneath the deck for standing moisture or blocked airflow, particularly after a stretch of heavy rain.

None of this is hard work, but skipping it is how a deck that should look good for decades starts looking tired after a few wet winters.

What Affects the Cost of a Composite Deck at March Point

We won't quote a number without seeing the site, but these are the factors that actually move the price on a job like this.

Factor	Why it matters here
Deck size and layout	More square footage and more corners/cutouts means more board and more labor
Substructure condition	A resurface over sound, dry framing costs less than one where framing needs to be rebuilt due to past water damage
Hardware grade	Marine-grade or stainless fasteners cost more than standard coated hardware, but they're the right call this close to the water
Board tier	Fully capped, textured composite generally costs more upfront than uncapped or lower-tier boards, and holds up better
Railing and stair complexity	Multi-level decks, custom railing, and stairs all add labor beyond flat board installation
Site access	Waterfront and hillside lots around March Point can add setup and material-handling time

Why a Crew That Already Works March Point Makes a Difference

A lot of decking problems we get called to fix aren't the material's fault — they're the result of a build that didn't account for where it actually sits. A crew that hasn't worked this stretch of Skagit County before might default to standard hardware, standard ventilation clearances, and standard flashing details that are fine in a drier climate but undersized for what March Point deals with every winter. We've built and repaired decks in this kind of exposure enough times to know where water actually gets in, which hardware holds up and which doesn't, and how much airflow a substructure actually needs to dry out between storms. That's not a marketing line — it's the difference between a deck that needs attention again in five years and one that doesn't.

If you're thinking about a new composite deck or replacing an aging one at March Point, we're happy to come take a look, walk the site with you, and give you a straightforward, no-pressure estimate — no obligation, just an honest read on what your project actually needs.