Board & Batten Siding in Burlington: Built for This Corner of Skagit County
Burlington sits in a stretch of Skagit County where three things gang up on a house exterior at once: salt-laden air moving in off Puget Sound and the Skagit tideflats, driving rain that comes in sideways during fall and winter storms, and a moss season that can run eight or nine months out of the year in shaded, north-facing spots. Board and batten siding is one of the more popular looks we install in this area right now — the vertical lines read as clean and modern on newer builds, and they also suit the farmhouse-style remodels going up on older Burlington lots. But board and batten is not a forgiving style if the substrate, the fasteners, or the caulking get cut corners. This page walks through what the style actually requires here, and how we build it so it holds up rather than becoming a five-year maintenance project.

Why Board & Batten Behaves Differently in Burlington's Climate
Vertical board and batten siding has more seams, more fastener penetrations, and more edge exposure per square foot than a standard horizontal lap job. Every batten strip creates a joint where water can either be shed or trapped, depending on how it was installed. In a drier inland climate that margin for error is wider. In Burlington, with the region's average rainfall and the added salt exposure from the Sound, it isn't.
Salt Air and Fastener Corrosion
Salt-carrying air moves inland across the flats and settles on exterior surfaces, including fasteners. Standard fasteners can start showing corrosion streaks within a few years in exposed coastal-influenced areas of Skagit County. That streaking isn't just cosmetic on board and batten — because the battens are narrow and the fastener lines are visible, rust bleed shows up faster and looks worse than it would on a wider lap board.
Driving Rain and Vertical Water Paths
Vertical siding channels water straight down the face of the board rather than shedding it board-to-board the way horizontal lap does. That's fine when the battens are properly gapped, back-primed, and flashed at every horizontal transition. It's a problem when battens are nailed tight to the field board with no room for the assembly to move, or when window and door transitions weren't detailed for a vertical water path in the first place.
Moss and Shaded North Elevations
A lot of Burlington lots have mature fir and cedar cover, and the north- and east-facing walls of those homes stay damp and shaded for long stretches of the year. Moss and algae take hold fastest on siding that can't dry out between rain events. Board and batten's vertical grooves give moss more toeholds than a flat lap surface if the material and finish aren't up to it.
What a Correctly Installed Board & Batten Job Includes
There's a real difference between board and batten that looks good for a photo and board and batten that's still performing in fifteen years. The difference is almost entirely in what you can't see once the job is done.
- A weather-resistive barrier installed and lapped correctly behind the field boards, not just stapled up as an afterthought
- Rainscreen or furring strips where the wall assembly needs a drainage gap, so trapped moisture has somewhere to go
- Battens fastened with enough reveal and clearance to allow seasonal movement without binding or cracking the caulk line
- Corrosion-resistant fasteners appropriate for a coastal-influenced climate, driven at the correct spacing and depth
- Factory-primed or factory-finished board faces and cut edges sealed on site, since raw cut edges are the fastest way moisture gets into fiber cement or any wood-based product
- Proper flashing at every window head, door head, and horizontal trim transition — the spots where vertical siding is most likely to funnel water into the wall
- Correct starter strip and base flashing at the foundation line, keeping the bottom of the field boards off standing water and splashback
Skip any one of these and the siding can still look right for a year or two. The problems that show up later — soft spots at the base, streaking under battens, cracked caulk lines — almost always trace back to one of these steps being shortcut during installation, not a flaw in the material itself.
Why We Install James Hardie for Board & Batten, Not Vinyl or LP SmartSide
Board and batten is sold in several materials, and it's worth being direct about why we standardized on James Hardie fiber cement instead of the alternatives most commonly pitched for this style.
Vinyl Board & Batten
Vinyl board and batten panels are inexpensive and install quickly, and for a homeowner on a tight budget that's a real advantage worth acknowledging. But vinyl expands and contracts significantly with temperature swings, which is exactly the kind of movement a tight vertical batten pattern doesn't hide well — panels can bow, warp, or show visible gapping at the seams over time. Vinyl also can't be painted a custom color without voiding manufacturer warranties in most cases, which limits Burlington homeowners who want a specific look. We don't install it.
LP SmartSide Board & Batten
LP SmartSide is engineered wood, and engineered wood is still wood at its core — it depends entirely on an intact factory coating and correctly sealed cut edges to keep moisture out. In a climate with the rainfall and humidity Skagit County sees, any breach in that coating (a scuff during install, a poorly sealed field cut, a fastener driven wrong) gives moisture a path into a wood-fiber substrate. That's a maintenance risk we're not willing to take on for our clients in a wet coastal county.
James Hardie Fiber Cement
Hardie's board and batten products are fiber cement: sand, cement, and cellulose fibers, non-combustible, and dimensionally stable across the temperature and moisture swings this region sees year-round. Hardie's HZ5 product line is engineered specifically for the kind of wet, temperate climate Skagit County sits in. Combined with Hardie's ColorPlus factory finish — a baked-on finish applied under controlled conditions rather than field-painted — you get a board and batten job with tighter color consistency, better fade resistance, and a materially lower long-term maintenance burden than either vinyl or engineered wood. It's also backed by a strong transferable warranty when installed to Hardie's specifications, which matters if you sell the home down the road.
Comparing Board & Batten Materials for a Burlington Home
| Factor | Vinyl | LP SmartSide (Engineered Wood) | James Hardie Fiber Cement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Behavior in salt air | Doesn't corrode, but can chalk and fade | Coating can degrade with prolonged salt/moisture exposure | Non-combustible, stable; ColorPlus finish resists fading |
| Handling driving rain | Can warp or gap at seams over time | Vulnerable if coating or cut-edge sealing fails | Engineered for wet climates; stable when sealed and installed to spec |
| Moss/algae resistance | Textured panels can hold organic growth | Similar vulnerability to any painted wood-based product | Smooth factory finish sheds growth better; still needs periodic cleaning |
| Color options | Limited; repainting often voids warranty | Field-paintable, but finish quality varies | Wide ColorPlus palette or field-paintable primed option |
| Typical lifespan with correct install | 20-30 years, seam issues common sooner | 25-30 years if coating is maintained | 30+ years, strong transferable warranty |
Our Process for a Burlington Board & Batten Project
We run every board and batten job through the same sequence, whether it's a full re-side or a single addition.
- On-site assessment. We look at existing sheathing condition, current moisture readings where accessible, sun/shade exposure on each elevation, and drainage patterns around the foundation — all of which affect how we detail the wall assembly.
- Weather barrier and drainage plane. We install or verify the weather-resistive barrier and add a rainscreen gap where the wall assembly calls for one, which matters more on shaded north walls prone to trapped moisture.
- Field board and batten installation. Hardie boards go up with correct fastener spacing, batten reveal, and expansion clearance, following Hardie's published installation specifications for this climate zone.
- Flashing and transitions. Every window, door, and horizontal trim line gets flashed before the next course goes up — not caulked over afterward as a substitute.
- Finish and detail work. Cut edges are sealed, caulk lines are tooled properly, and we do a final walk of every elevation before calling the job done.
What Board & Batten Costs to Consider for a Burlington Home
We don't publish fixed prices because every home's square footage, existing wall condition, and level of trim detail change the number. But homeowners planning a project should budget around these cost drivers rather than being surprised by them mid-project.
- Condition of existing sheathing — rot or water damage found during tear-off adds cost but shouldn't be skipped
- Number and complexity of window/door openings, since each one needs individual flashing detail
- Whether a rainscreen/furring system is being added versus already present
- Elevation height and access — two-story walls and steep lots take longer to stage and work safely
- Trim package — corner boards, frieze boards, and window casing detail all add labor
Why Hiring a Crew That Already Works in Burlington Matters
Board and batten installation isn't uniform across climates, and a crew that mostly installs in drier parts of the state may not default to the flashing and drainage details Skagit County's rainfall and humidity actually require. A crew that regularly works Burlington and the surrounding Skagit County area already knows which elevations on a given lot layout tend to hold moss, how local moisture and rainfall patterns affect drying time between coats and steps, and what inspectors in the area expect to see at flashing and drainage details. That local pattern recognition is the difference between a board and batten job that's built for this specific climate and one that was built generically and happens to be standing in it.
If you're weighing board and batten siding for a home in Burlington, we're happy to walk your property, look at your existing siding condition, and put together a straightforward, no-pressure estimate — just fill out the form below to get started.
Skagit County